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Thread Status: Active Total posts in this thread: 46
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BE04642
Advanced Cruncher Belgium Joined: Dec 14, 2004 Post Count: 59 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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Ahum... "Check your new settings with Prime 95 from mersenne.org (the multi-core version) and let it run for a few hours. If any error occurs, relax your timing a bit or lower your frequency and start over ", but you are right about Orthos, that is buggy like ****
---------------------------------------- .The only way to really measure your CPU-temp is doing it like shown on [H] www.hardocp.com that is. The rest is crap Speedfan is recommended and alot of other tools you didn't mention either. ex: throttlewatch - http://www.panopsys.com/ - I didn't see any mention of speedfan, prime95, orthos or some other stuff that would be useful. Speedfan especially It is pretty rare to burn out the newer processors - I think this applies to the P4 but I won't swear to it. There are sensors built into the chip that will shut it down if it gets too hot. Probably the only way to do it would be to overvolt too much. It helps if you have a motherboard designed for overclocking since it will usually save you the trouble of having to clear the CMOS (bios memory - although cmos really stands for complementary metal oxide semiconductor and really applies most modern semiconductors whether memory, cpu, etc). But it sounds like yours has that covered - +1 for Dell i guess. Also note that when reading forums, AMD and Intel chips do not OC the same way (except for the latest i7 chips). AMD has an integrated memory controller so there is technically no FSB. And the FSB is normally where you start overclocking and then branch out from there. WCG apps are mostly cpu intensive so you will get the biggest boost from a faster cpu. Memory tweaks can help, but you'll get more bang from boosting the clock speed. edited for inappropriate language...cih ![]() [Edit 1 times, last edit by Former Member at Jan 31, 2009 9:19:59 PM] |
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twilyth
Master Cruncher US Joined: Mar 30, 2007 Post Count: 2130 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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Ahum... "Check your new settings with Prime 95 from mersenne.org (the multi-core version) and let it run for a few hours. If any error occurs, relax your timing a bit or lower your frequency and start over ", but you are right about Orthos, that is buggy like **** .The only way to really measure your CPU-temp is doing it like shown on [H] www.hardocp.com that is. The rest is crap Speedfan is recommended and alot of other tools you didn't mention either. ex: throttlewatch - http://www.panopsys.com/ - I'm not really hard core when it comes to overclocking. I'm usually happy with 30% as long as I can keep the CPU in the 50-60 degree Centigrade range with premium air cooling (xigmatek direct touch h/s for the win - YEAH!!! S1283 is great) I run prime 95 and boinc concurrently - that's the best test I've found although Linpack is supposed to be pretty good too. I'd heard Orthos was good but haven't used it. There are probably hundreds of OC tools. I even found a collection of them at one point but don't remember what it was called. There's a lot to know so it's easy to get overwhelmed but I'm sure there are tutorials out there. Most might relate to specific chips. Those will be quite technical, but you should be able to find a general overview some place. There's probably even a "dummies guide" series book on it. Also, everyone who has gotten seriously into OC'ing has destroyed hardware in the process. For most it is a sort of badge of honor. So if don't have a backup system and can't afford to lose any hardware, then be extremely cautious. edited for inappropriate language...cih ![]() ![]() [Edit 1 times, last edit by Former Member at Jan 31, 2009 9:19:11 PM] |
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BE04642
Advanced Cruncher Belgium Joined: Dec 14, 2004 Post Count: 59 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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50-60 degree °C??? that's quite hot you know for premium cooling, and that for a 30% o'clock.
----------------------------------------http://www.rapidshare.com/files/192217500/steaming.jpg One of my "cool" rigs , running 24/7 aircooled - "push pull" config of 2 * 12 * 5 cm mainframe ventilators @ 17 volt , Utra 120 and cpu sandpapered and polished to a mirror finish - with a max of 33 °C last summer. (measured the [H] way)Can tell you that my cellar is quite noisy and blowing like a hurricane, but the 2 Q6600's keep the floor at a comfy temp during those cold winter days I won't push harder because I want it to survive for at least 4 years (does 4GHz, but only in winter and at 1.4875 volt and vents at 24 volt )I'm very serious - but oh so cautious - into o'clocking and I never fried a piece of hardware ( I did blow a subwoofer once , before my SVS subwoofer beast that blows my neighbours away ) and keep on crunching I'm not really hard core when it comes to overclocking. I'm usually happy with 30% as long as I can keep the CPU in the 50-60 degree Centigrade range with premium air cooling (xigmatek direct touch h/s for the win - YEAH!!! S1283 is great) I run prime 95 and boinc concurrently - that's the best test I've found although Linpack is supposed to be pretty good too. I'd heard Orthos was good but haven't used it. There are probably hundreds of OC tools. I even found a collection of them at one point but don't remember what it was called. There's a lot to know so it's easy to get overwhelmed but I'm sure there are tutorials out there. Most might relate to specific chips. Those will be quite technical, but you should be able to find a general overview some place. There's probably even a "dummies guide" series book on it. Also, everyone who has gotten seriously into OC'ing has destroyed hardware in the process. For most it is a sort of badge of honor. So if don't have a backup system and can't afford to lose any hardware, then be extremely cautious. edited for inappropriate language...cih ![]() |
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Former Member
Cruncher Joined: May 22, 2018 Post Count: 0 Status: Offline |
I don't think there's any benefit in over-cooling. So long as the chip is safely within it's operating temperature, it's not going to experience any thermal damage.
The benefits of not cooling so aggressively include reduced energy consumption, less noise, plus you can save money: http://www.datacenterknowledge.com/archives/2...-data-center-temperature/ |
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BE04642
Advanced Cruncher Belgium Joined: Dec 14, 2004 Post Count: 59 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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Point taken for datacenters, but since it is running 24/7 in my cellar (basement) and also does during summer and I got access to the ventilators (0.55 watt at 24 volt) why not?
----------------------------------------There is no noise, except in the cellar and it keeps the floor warm and the risk is eliminated of freezing pipes. Also, our cold water has a comfy temp - good for rinsing after brushing your teeth -, and oh yeah...it dries our wood for the stove. Nothing but benefits in my case and the solar panels are ordered and will be installed this spring. I don't think there's any benefit in over-cooling. So long as the chip is safely within it's operating temperature, it's not going to experience any thermal damage. The benefits of not cooling so aggressively include reduced energy consumption, less noise, plus you can save money: http://www.datacenterknowledge.com/archives/2...-data-center-temperature/ ![]() |
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courine
Master Cruncher Capt., Team In2My.Net Cmd. HQ: San Francisco Joined: Apr 26, 2007 Post Count: 1794 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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I re-use the heat from my machines by back flowing a heater vent. Since the heater here is convective and has no fan, the fan that pumps the heat away actually improves the heaters performance beyond the pre-heating the machines put out. In the summer, I duct the heat outside so not to fight the thermal sink in the front room.
----------------------------------------The sink is just a 2" copper pipe that goes about 35' straight down. It has a pump to move the water cooling in the pipe past a pair of small car radiators that sandwich a box fan. This makes it so I don’t need an air conditioner even on the hottest of days for only 85W. So part of going green is learning to use less power and get more out of it by design. Like using the heat from the back of your fridge to preheat outside air into the kitchen, or vent it away in the summer. Reducing the effect the oven has on this efficiency battle. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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twilyth
Master Cruncher US Joined: Mar 30, 2007 Post Count: 2130 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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BE: You're probably right about the h/s performance. But I'm pretty sure its my fault. I probably need to reapply the thermal paste (using ceramique) and I haven't really followed the instructions about letting it set. But I know that if I start tearing it apart, it will be weeks until I get running again. Heck, i still have a q9450 i bought almost a year ago (March) that I haven't mounted yet.
----------------------------------------I was going to put my rigs in the basement too but it turns out I had mice - a whole family from what it looked like. So that got pushed back - which is fine for the winter. What would be ideal would be a dumb waiter that could handle all of the machines - downstairs in the summer, upstairs in the winter. There's no way i'm moving them every 6 mo. Courine - That's pretty impressive, but I thought you lived in an apartment - how did you swing that. could you give some more details on how it is set up. It's technically off topic, but i would be interested. I'm guessing the heat exchanger is outside or a ventilated area - or is that how you're capturing the heat? edited for inappropriate language...cih ![]() ![]() [Edit 1 times, last edit by Former Member at Feb 2, 2009 2:33:03 PM] |
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courine
Master Cruncher Capt., Team In2My.Net Cmd. HQ: San Francisco Joined: Apr 26, 2007 Post Count: 1794 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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Twil,
----------------------------------------For when it gets really hot, I heat sink to the ground through a 2" copper tube embedded 16' down. A return 1/2" PVC tube feeds 2 old car radiators with a box fan between. A very small fountain pump keeps the water about 55F no matter what. I was using this to cool the computer air for re-circulation, but now use an active venting system (above) to prevent air reflow where the computers are, removing a thermal runaway "oven" effect. It use to be that to cool this room was 250 watts, now it is 17. The "cool pump" that’s about 7 watts to run the pump and the box fan is from 75 to 150 depending on speed, but now beats out the 350 watt "whole house" cage fan it replaces for only 85. Next is the battle in the kitchen between the stove and the fridge. ![]() I have to move soon and its the middle of winter, so I removed it. Otherwise I would take some pics. But the drill was the 1/2" pvc tube blowing water from a garden hose. I built a cougher damn to channel the water from under the house, trapping excess mud. Also a 4" collar pipe is good to keep the mud out of the work area. Once the 1/2" pilot is drilled, redrill with the 2" pvc. The 2" copper sections thread together to make a 20' section. Then run a 10' section of the 2" pvc for at least 5' into the ground. I went 8' and then the tube was long enough to pass through a trap door inside the house. Air is pulled in from near the ceiling past the radiators and out across the room. The fan and the water pump are connected to the same fan motor controller. So if its hot, you just turn it up. I live in a bottom floor flat, so no one needed ever know. Where I go next, I think they wont need know either, unless I get a second story flat. But even if they do, only 2 hoses are needed to move the water to and from the second story. And if done right, is seen as an addition. So I doubt they would complain. Its cheap too! the whole thing cost about 100usd. What gets me is why it isnt more used. If you water cool your machines, you can plug right in and reduce your power supply loading. The pump and the fan are AC, just need a way to turn it up and down automatically. ![]() ![]() ![]() [Edit 1 times, last edit by courine at Feb 1, 2009 6:53:54 AM] |
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twilyth
Master Cruncher US Joined: Mar 30, 2007 Post Count: 2130 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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I think I understand. It's pretty amazing that you get that kind of heat transfer out of an 8 foot loop.
----------------------------------------I looked into geothermal before i replaced my furnace, but i guess it's still a specialty market around here so the contractors bend you over big time and it just doesn't pay. They're probably more "flexible" now, but after putting out $3500 for a new furnace, I'm not interested. They were talking $20k plus for a complete system which is just ridiculous. Around here we have a thin layer of top soil and then solid red shale. I could probablly rent something to drill through it but it would be easier to get a backhoe and dig an 8 foot trench. Then I could fill it with 50-100 feet of looped hose, backfill with sand and gravel and then run it to the house. That should give me the maximum heat transfer and at 8 feet, the hose would be near the top of the water table. I just don't know how much of a benefit I would get from it. It would be too expensive to try to interface with the forced air system. I'll have to think about it. Hopefully geothermal will start to catch on and the prices will become more reasonable although as long as energy prices are low, that'snot going to happen. Thanks for the explanation. ![]() ![]() |
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BE04642
Advanced Cruncher Belgium Joined: Dec 14, 2004 Post Count: 59 Status: Offline Project Badges:
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This heat recycling seems to be interesting enough to start a new thread
---------------------------------------- What do you all think? ![]() ![]() |
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